If you’re researching what are powered anode rods, they are an electronic replacement for traditional sacrificial anode rods and are designed to protect your water heater tank while reducing corrosion and odors.

Credibility Note: I’ve worked in the wholesale plumbing industry for nearly a decade and regularly help plumbers and homeowners choose the right anode rod and water heater parts for their systems.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. If you purchase through my links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the site — thank you.

What Are Powered Anode Rods? (And Why Plumbers Recommend Them)

A powered anode rod protects the inside of your water heater tank from corrosion but it does it differently than a traditional anode.

Traditional anode rods sacrifice metal to protect the tank (magnesium or aluminum). Over time, they corrode away and must be replaced.

A powered anode rod:

• uses a small plug-in power supply
• delivers a controlled electrical signal
• prevents corrosion without dissolving
• doesn’t add sediment or metallic debris to the tank

Homeowners like them because they:

• can help reduce or eliminate rotten-egg / sulfur odor
• work well in homes with soft water
• may extend tank lifespan
• require less frequent replacement

While traditional anode rods rely on sacrificial metal to protect the tank, a powered anode works in a much more controlled and consistent way. Instead of slowly corroding, it actively prevents corrosion by sending a small electrical signal through the tank’s lining. This makes powered anode rods especially appealing to homeowners who want a more permanent, low-maintenance solution for water heater protection.

IMPORTANT: Make Sure the Powered Anode Rod Fits Your Water Heater

This is one of the biggest mistakes people make when ordering online. Compatibility is the most important factor when choosing a powered anode rod. Even though many models are designed to be universal, certain water heater brands — especially Bradford White — are built differently and require a brand-specific version. Taking a minute to verify tank size and thread design before ordering can save a lot of frustration during installation.

Powered anode rods are designed for specific:

• water heater tank sizes
• thread locations
• brands or tank configurations

For example, Corro-Protec offers:

• models sized by tank capacity (10–80 gallon, etc.)
• a Bradford White-specific powered anode rod (only for Bradford White heaters)
• a universal powered anode for most other tank brands

Before buying, confirm:

• your water heater brand
• tank size (gallons)
• anode rod location
• whether your model requires a special adapter

And one more important detail:

Powered anode rods require an outlet nearby for the power supply.

If your heater is in a basement or closet without a nearby plug — you may need an electrician to add an outlet.

Powered Anode Rod vs Magnesium Anode Rod — What’s the Difference?

Here’s a practical, plumber-focused comparison.

Many homeowners search for what are powered anode rods when comparing them to magnesium anode rods because they want a long-term, maintenance-free solution.

Traditional Magnesium / Aluminum Anode Rod

Works best for:

• normal city water
• homes without odor issues
• homeowners comfortable replacing rods every few years

Pros:

• affordable
• proven technology
• protects well in standard conditions

Cons:

• can contribute to rotten-egg / sulfur smell in some water
• dissolves over time and requires replacement
• can create sediment / residue in tank

For homeowners dealing with sulfur or rotten-egg odor in hot water, learning what are powered anode rods and how they treat odor problems can make a big difference.

Both options can protect a water heater effectively — the real difference comes down to water quality, maintenance preferences, and long-term expectations. Many homeowners start with a traditional magnesium anode rod and later upgrade to a powered anode once odor problems or premature corrosion begin showing up. In other homes, a powered anode is chosen right away as a preventative upgrade to protect an expensive or newer water heater.

Powered (Electric) Anode Rod

Works best for:

• well water with odor problems
• softened water systems
• homes with recurring smell or corrosion issues
• extending tank lifespan

Pros:

• doesn’t corrode or break down
• often reduces or eliminates sulfur smell
• produces no sediment
• typically lasts as long as the water heater
• great upgrade for high-end or well-maintained systems

Cons:

• higher upfront cost
• must be plugged into a power source
• must be purchased in the correct model for your heater

Are Powered Anode Rods Worth It?

From real-world feedback we see daily — yes, in the right situations. Deciding whether a powered anode rod is worth the investment really depends on your plumbing system and what problems you’re trying to solve. In some homes, the benefits are primarily long-term — extending tank life and reducing maintenance. In others, the value is noticed immediately, especially when it eliminates persistent sulfur or rotten-egg odor in the hot water.

They are especially worth considering if:

• Your water smells like sulfur or rotten eggs (powered anode rods help reduce that odor)
• The home has softened water, which can cause magnesium rods to corrode faster
• Long-term corrosion protection is a priority
• The existing anode rod deteriorates quickly
• You plan to keep the heater for many more years

They are less necessary if:

• The water heater is being replaced soon
• Water quality is generally good and corrosion isn’t an issue
• Lowest upfront cost matters more than long-term performance

Things to Check Before Installing a Powered Anode Rod

Before purchasing:

• confirm compatibility with your heater brand
• verify tank size (10–80 gallon etc.)
• check whether your model is universal or brand-specific
• make sure you have an outlet nearby
• ensure the old rod can be removed safely

If you’re ever unsure about compatibility or installation, it’s always a good idea to confirm details with the manufacturer or speak with a licensed plumber. Powered anode rods are very reliable when matched correctly to the water heater, but choosing the wrong model or forcing a difficult installation can lead to problems that are easily avoided with a quick professional opinion.

And as we always recommend:

if you’re unsure — check with the manufacturer or your plumber

Protecting the tank only works if the rod is properly matched to your system.

FAQ — Powered Anode Rods

Do powered anode rods stop rotten-egg smell?
In many homes, yes. They help reduce odor caused by bacteria interaction with magnesium anodes.

Do they work with Bradford White water heaters?
Yes — but Bradford White models usually require a brand-specific powered anode. Check compatibility before ordering.

Do powered anode rods require maintenance?
Very little — they typically last the life of the water heater.

Can I install one myself?
Many DIY homeowners can — but removing the old rod can be difficult. Some prefer to have a plumber install it.

Conclusion

Powered anode rods aren’t necessary for every home, but when they’re installed in the right situation, they can make a big difference in water heater performance and lifespan. Whether you’re trying to eliminate sulfur odor, reduce corrosion, or simply want a lower-maintenance alternative to a traditional anode rod, they offer a modern and reliable approach to tank protection. As long as the model is properly matched to your water heater and installed correctly, a powered anode rod can be a worthwhile upgrade for many homeowners.

If you’re maintaining or upgrading your water heater, you may also find this helpful: Do I Need a Water Heater Expansion Tank? It explains when expansion tanks are required, how they protect your plumbing system, and why many modern homes need one.

The post What Are Powered Anode Rods? A Practical Guide for Water Heaters first appeared on plumbing review.

In this article, I’ll explain what ProPress fittings are, what they’re used for, and when they make sense in residential plumbing — based on real-world experience working with plumbers, contractors, and plumbing materials every day.

I work closely with plumbers, contractors, and plumbing material suppliers every day, and my goal in this article is to share practical, real-world insight into how ProPress fittings are used in residential plumbing.

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. If you purchase a product through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. This helps support the site so I can continue creating helpful plumbing education content.

What Are ProPress Fittings Used For?

ProPress fittings are most commonly used on copper water piping systems, and they work by creating a permanent mechanical seal when the fitting is pressed onto the pipe using a specialized hydraulic or battery-powered press tool. Inside the fitting is an O-ring that compresses during the pressing process to create a watertight seal.

In real-world plumbing work, ProPress fittings are frequently used for:

• Residential water supply lines
• Water heater replacements
• Remodels and repipe projects
• Plumbing service and repair jobs
• Boiler and hydronic heating systems
• Mechanical rooms and equipment connections
• Multi-unit and apartment buildings
• Tight spaces where soldering is difficult
• Jobs where open flame is risky or not allowed

One of the biggest reasons plumbers like using ProPress is speed and efficiency — especially on service calls and retrofit work.

With soldering, the line must be completely drained and completely free of water at the joint, otherwise the solder joint will not seal properly. With ProPress, plumbers can often make repairs faster without fully draining an entire system, which can save a significant amount of time on the job.

Why Many Plumbers Prefer ProPress Over Soldering (Especially in Homes)

Soldering copper is still widely used and absolutely has its place, but there are several advantages to ProPress in everyday plumbing work.

Benefits of ProPress fittings include:

• Faster installation and repair time
• No open flame or torch required
• Reduced fire risk in finished homes and attics
• Great for working in tight or awkward spaces
• Less downtime for homeowners during repairs
• More consistent, repeatable joint quality
• Less physical strain and repetitive stress on the body

Many plumbers also use:

• a Milwaukee battery-powered copper cutter to cut pipe, and
• a Ridgid (or similar) battery-powered press tool to press fittings. I’ve linked the Ridgid ProPress tool as a cheaper option for your homeowner projects.

This creates a very efficient workflow and helps reduce wear-and-tear on hands, shoulders, and elbows over time — which is something many career plumbers value highly.

While ProPress fittings are more expensive than standard copper fittings, the labor savings and reliability often make them the better value overall, especially in residential repair work and remodels.

Recommended Tool — Milwaukee M12 ProPress Tool

If you’re considering doing ProPress work yourself or upgrading your plumbing tools, the Milwaukee M12 ProPress tool is one of the most widely used options among residential plumbers. It’s lightweight, reliable, and works great for tight spaces.

Check current price on Amazon:
Milwaukee M12 ProPress Tool Kit

Do ProPress Fittings Replace Soldering Completely?

No — soldering is still widely used and absolutely still valid.

There are situations where soldering may still be preferred, including:

• Very small or tight detail work
• Certain small spot repairs
• Situations where material cost must be minimized
• Specialty applications where press fittings aren’t approved

ProPress isn’t a “cheaper shortcut” — it’s simply another professional-grade joining method that excels in certain applications.

Most plumbers today use both methods, choosing whichever is best for the job.

Gas-Rated ProPress Fittings (Important to Know)

There are also gas-rated ProPress fittings made specifically for copper gas lines.

These are not the same as standard water press fittings.

A key manufacturer in this category is NIBCO, who produces gas-rated ProPress copper fittings designed for appropriate piping systems. These fittings typically:

• must be installed with Type L copper
• are engineered and tested for gas service applications
• can usually be identified by yellow marking or labeling

Water-rated press fittings are commonly identified by green markings.

However — marking colors may vary by product and manufacturer, so plumbers should always:

confirm rating, application approval, and compatibility directly with the manufacturer.

This is especially important for gas, steam, or specialty system work.

Prep & Installation Matters (Protecting the O-Ring Seal)

Even though ProPress is faster than soldering, proper pipe preparation is still critical.

Before pressing a fitting, plumbers must:

• Ream and deburr the copper pipe
• Ensure the pipe is clean and smooth
• Avoid scratching or damaging the O-ring
• Fully seat the pipe into the fitting
• Verify the joint is fully pressed before charging the line

The O-ring inside the fitting creates the seal — so any debris, sharp edges, or contamination can compromise the joint.

Like any plumbing system, the quality of the installation matters just as much as the product itself.

Transition & Specialty ProPress Fittings in plumbing

Beyond standard copper-to-copper fittings, there are many specialty press fittings available, including:

• Press fittings that transition from copper to PEX crimp
• Press fittings that transition to PEX expansion systems
• MegaPress fittings (Viega) designed for black iron pipe applications

While the most common residential use is still water ProPress fittings, gas-rated press fittings and specialty press solutions are becoming more widely used in both residential and light commercial work.

That said — application suitability should always be verified with the manufacturer, especially for steam, high-temperature, or specialty systems.

Are ProPress Fittings Good for Residential Plumbing?

Yes — ProPress fittings are widely used in residential plumbing today and are especially beneficial in:

• Emergency repairs
• Remodels and repipes
• Crawlspaces, attics, and tight areas
• Occupied homes where open flames are a concern
• Jobs where speed and downtime matter

From a homeowner standpoint, the main takeaway is this:

ProPress fittings are a professional joining method — not a shortcut — and when installed properly, they are reliable and commonly used in modern plumbing systems.

The materials may cost more than soldering, but the labor savings, safety benefits, and service efficiency are often well worth it.

FAQ — ProPress Fittings in Plumbing

Are ProPress fittings as reliable as soldered copper joints?

When installed correctly on properly prepared pipe, ProPress fittings are considered a reliable and code-approved joining method and are widely used in professional plumbing.

Do ProPress fittings ever leak?

Leaks are uncommon but can occur if:

• the pipe is not cleaned or deburred
• the fitting is not fully pressed
• the O-ring is damaged
• the fitting is used in the wrong application

Proper prep and installation are key.

Are ProPress fittings approved for gas lines?

Yes — gas-rated press fittings do exist, and NIBCO is a key manufacturer of copper gas press fittings. Make sure you are using with a copper rated pipe. However, gas fittings must be specifically rated and approved for that use, and plumbers must follow local code and manufacturer requirements.

Can homeowners install ProPress fittings themselves?

While some homeowners may own press tools, ProPress systems are primarily designed for professional plumbing installation. The tools are expensive, and proper training, prep, and application knowledge are important to ensure a safe, reliable joint.

Is ProPress better than soldering?

It depends on the job.

ProPress is generally better for:

• service work
• repairs
• tight spaces
• occupied homes
• faster project completion

Soldering may still be better for small repairs, budget-sensitive work, and certain specialty applications.

Most plumbers use — and value — both methods.

Closing Thoughts

I hope this simple explanation helped you understand what ProPress fittings are and how they’re used in modern residential plumbing. From working closely with plumbers and contractors over the years, I’ve seen firsthand why many professionals prefer ProPress — especially for repairs, remodels, and real-world service work where safety, speed, and reliability matter.

If you found this helpful, you may also like my other plumbing education articles on common plumbing components and systems — they’re written to help homeowners better understand how their plumbing works and make informed decisions.

If you’re interested in learning about another important plumbing component, check out my article on What Is an Air Chamber in Plumbing? And Why They’re Important — it explains how air chambers help reduce water hammer and protect your plumbing system.

The post What Are ProPress Fittings in Plumbing? A Simple Explanation first appeared on plumbing review.

I work in the plumbing wholesale industry and help homeowners, DIYers, and contractors choose plumbing products every day, so my goal in this article is to give you honest, real-world insight into whether cheaper Amazon faucets are a good fit for your situation.

Affiliate Disclosure

Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the site and allows me to continue providing helpful plumbing education and product insights.

What Makes Many Cheap Kitchen Faucets on Amazon “Cheap”?

Two faucets can look nearly identical on the outside — but the real difference is inside the valve body.

From my experience in the plumbing wholesale industry, most of the cost difference comes from:

• cartridge quality
• internal seals and o-rings
• faucet body material (zinc alloy vs brass or stainless)
• sprayer hose + button assembly
• mounting hardware strength
• finish and coating durability

Budget faucets generally prioritize appearance first — longevity second.

That doesn’t automatically make them bad — but it does mean they’re built to a lower service life expectation.

Common Problems I See With Cheap Amazon Faucets

These are patterns I’ve seen repeatedly over the years:

• sprayer buttons sticking or failing
• internal hoses kinking or tearing
• weaker plastic mounting hardware
• finishes spotting or fading sooner
• cartridges wearing earlier → drips or leaks
• softer metal threads and connections

Most of them work great at first…

…but they typically don’t handle heavy daily use as well as mid-grade faucets.

When Cheap Kitchen Faucets on Amazon Can Be Worth It

There are plenty of situations where a budget faucet makes sense:

• light-use kitchens
• basement or laundry sinks
• rental turnovers
• wet bars or kitchenette sinks
• flip houses or temporary remodels

If a 3–5 year lifespan is acceptable — they can be a perfectly fine value.

Make Sure Your New Faucet Matches Your Sink Hole Configuration

Before ordering a kitchen faucet on Amazon, it’s important to check how many mounting holes your sink or countertop has. Some sinks have one single faucet hole, while others have three holes with a deck plate (escutcheon).

Most faucets today are designed for single-hole installation, but many models include an optional cover plate so they can also be used on three-hole sinks. Just make sure the faucet you’re ordering either:

• matches your existing sink layout, or
• comes with a deck plate if you need one

This is a very common mistake I see homeowners run into — the faucet arrives, but it doesn’t physically match the sink hole configuration.

Pro Tip: If you’re not sure which you have, snap a quick picture of your sink before ordering. It can save you the headache of returning the wrong faucet.

Budget Faucets I Consider “Good Enough” for Light Use

Before I recommend any budget kitchen faucet, I look for:

• ceramic disc cartridge
• brass or stainless primary body
• solid mounting hardware
• consistent track record in reviews

Good Value Pick — Good for Light-Use Kitchens

Entry-Level Pull-Down Faucet — Decent Value for the Price

Affordable Basic Faucet for Rentals or Secondary Sinks

Warranty, Parts Availability & Support — The Hidden Difference Most People Miss

One of the biggest downsides of many no-name or ultra-cheap Amazon faucets isn’t the price…

…it’s parts and warranty support.

If a cartridge, sprayer hose, or seal fails, it can be very hard — or sometimes impossible — to:

• find replacement parts
• contact the manufacturer
• process a warranty claim
• receive parts quickly when the faucet is down

Many no-name faucet brands:

• change factories or suppliers frequently
• don’t stock parts long-term
• disappear from Amazon after a short time
• rely on slow or overseas support channels

So instead of replacing a $10 cartridge…

Homeowners often end up replacing the entire faucet.

That costs more in the long run.

Why Trusted Faucet Brands Are Easier to Maintain

With established faucet brands, you’re also buying:

• parts availability
• service documentation
• long-term support
• a real warranty system

With reputable manufacturers, it’s much easier to:

• order replacement cartridges online
• pick up parts locally if needed
• get support when something fails
• receive parts quickly when the sink is down

This is one of the main reasons plumbers prefer known brands:

You’re not “stuck” if something goes wrong.

Want to Stay Budget-Friendly? Big Brands Offer Lower-Cost Entry Models

If you want to avoid no-name faucets but still keep costs down, many major brands offer entry-level kitchen faucets that use better internal components and have reliable support.

Brands like:

• Moen
• Delta
• Kohler

offer value-tier options that:

cost less than their premium lines
are far easier to get parts for
have great customer service
generally hold up better over time

Entry-Level Moen Kitchen Faucet — Good Value Option

Delta Budget Kitchen Faucet — Reliable Everyday Use

Kohler Value-Tier Kitchen Faucet — Solid Build Quality

These are often the best middle-ground between price and longevity.

When I Don’t Recommend Buying a Cheap Faucet

I strongly recommend avoiding ultra-cheap faucets if:

• this is your main family kitchen sink
• you cook and wash dishes daily
• you plan to stay in the home long-term
• you want fewer plumbing headaches
• you don’t want to replace it again soon

In these situations, better cartridge design and internal build quality matter a lot.

A faucet that lasts 10–15 years is almost always cheaper than one replaced every 3–5.

Mid-Grade Kitchen Faucets I Recommend for Daily Use

These faucets generally:

• feel sturdier
• use higher-quality ceramic cartridges
• include stronger mounting systems
• offer better long-term reliability

Great Everyday Kitchen Faucet — Strong Long-Term Value

Mid-Grade Pull-Down Faucet for Busy Kitchens

Workhorse-Style Kitchen Faucet — Durable & Practical

For most households — this is the real “sweet spot.”

How to Tell if a Cheap Amazon Kitchen Faucet Is Built Well

Here are simple things to look for in the product listing:

Look for:

solid brass or stainless body
ceramic disc cartridge
metal mounting plate
braided stainless supply lines
product weight listed (heavier is usually better)

Be cautious if you see:

“zinc alloy body”
vague or missing material details
no mention of replacement parts
a brand you can’t research

If the listing hides details — it’s usually because corners were cut.

So… Are Cheap Kitchen Faucets on Amazon Worth Buying?

Yes — in the right situation.

For:

• light-use kitchens
• rentals
• secondary sinks
• temporary installs

a budget faucet may be perfectly fine.

But for your main kitchen sink — where reliability matters — spending a little more on a reputable or mid-grade faucet usually:

• lasts longer
• leaks less
• feels better to use
• costs less over time

The real difference isn’t how the faucet looks…

It’s how it’s built on the inside.

FAQs

Do cheap Amazon kitchen faucets leak more often?
Some do — mainly due to lower-grade cartridges and seals. Many work fine short-term but wear out sooner than mid-grade faucets.

How long do cheap kitchen faucets usually last?
Light-use homes: often 3–5 years
Mid-grade faucets: commonly 8–15+ years

Is it worth upgrading to a better faucet?
For busy kitchens — yes.
Better cartridges and internal components mean fewer repairs and a longer lifespan.

Thanks for reading, and I hope this helped you feel more confident about choosing the right kitchen faucet for your home. My goal is to provide honest, real-world guidance based on what I see every day in the plumbing industry, so you can make informed decisions and avoid costly mistakes.

If you found this helpful, you may also like my article “What Is an Air Chamber in Plumbing? And Why They’re Important” and my guide “Do I Need an Expansion Tank on My Water Heater?” — both cover common plumbing questions that help protect your plumbing system and prevent future issues.

The post Are Cheap Kitchen Faucets on Amazon Worth Buying — Really? first appeared on plumbing review.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the most important facts homeowners and professionals should know about expansion tanks — including when they’re required, how they work, whether they’re needed on tankless and well systems, and how they can help extend the life of your plumbing system.

Disclosure

This post may contain affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Credibility

This guide is based on my real-world plumbing industry experience helping homeowners and contractors choose and install plumbing products, fixtures, and components that actually work in real applications.

What Does a Water Heater Expansion Tank Do?

A water heater expansion tank is a small pressurized tank installed on the cold-water line near the water heater. Inside the tank is a rubber bladder and an air chamber. When water heats up and expands, pressure increases in the plumbing system — and the expansion tank gives that extra volume a place to go.

In simple terms, an expansion tank:

• reduces stress on plumbing components
• helps stabilize system pressure
• can extend the life of your water heater

Without expansion protection, pressure spikes can occur during heating cycles, which can wear out valves, fittings, and fixtures over time.

Do I Need a Water Heater Expansion Tank?

You likely need an expansion tank if your plumbing system includes:

• a pressure-reducing valve (PRV)
• a backflow preventer
• or a check valve on the main water line

This creates what is known as a closed plumbing system.

In a closed system, expanded water cannot move backward into the city main. Instead, pressure increases inside the home — and the expansion tank absorbs that pressure before it stresses the plumbing.

Some older homes still operate as open systems, where expanded water can flow back toward the supply line. These may not require an expansion tank, but many areas still recommend installing one when replacing a water heater.

The goal isn’t to “fix a problem” — it’s to prevent long-term pressure damage.

What Is a Closed Plumbing System?

A closed plumbing system is a plumbing setup where water cannot flow backward into the city water main or well system. This usually happens when a home has a:

• pressure-reducing valve (PRV)
• backflow preventer
• or check valve installed on the water service line

These devices are important for safety and water quality — but they also isolate the plumbing system. When water heats up and expands, the extra volume has nowhere to go, so pressure increases inside the home. That is why expansion tanks are commonly used in closed systems.

In an open plumbing system, expanded water can move back toward the supply line, so pressure doesn’t increase in the same way.

I’ll be publishing a future guide that explains how to tell whether your home is an open or closed system.

Signs That You May Need an Expansion Tank

You may benefit from an expansion tank if you notice:

• your T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve drips occasionally
• your pipes bang or vibrate when using hot water
• faucet cartridges or toilet fill valves fail more often than normal
• water pressure rises temporarily after heating cycles
• your plumber or inspector confirms your system is closed

These are common signs of thermal expansion pressure.

They may not cause immediate failure — but they can shorten the lifespan of plumbing components.

When adding or replacing an expansion tank, it’s important to select the correct size and factory pressure rating. Here is an example of a commonly used residential expansion tank for typical home systems. Always verify with a professional before installing.

What Happens If You Don’t Have an Expansion Tank?

Without expansion protection in a closed system, pressure increases during heating cycles. Over time, this may lead to:

• nuisance dripping from the T&P valve
• added stress on water heater weld seams
• premature wear on plumbing fixtures and valves
• increased strain on supply lines and fittings

This doesn’t always cause an immediate leak or failure.

But expansion tanks are designed to limit repeated pressure fatigue across your plumbing system.

They function as a small — but meaningful — protection component.

Do All Homes Need an Expansion Tank?

No — not every home requires one.

You may not need an expansion tank if:

• your plumbing system is open
• there are no check valves or PRV installed
• your local plumbing code does not mandate one

However…

Many municipalities now require an expansion tank when:

• replacing a water heater
• adding a PRV
• or upgrading to a closed system

Even where not required, many plumbers recommend them as preventative protection.

The best approach is to:

• determine whether your plumbing system is open or closed
• and review local code or inspection guidelines

Do Tankless Water Heaters Need an Expansion Tank?

Short Answer: Tankless water heaters usually do not need an expansion tank because they do not store hot water. However, if the home has a closed plumbing system, expansion protection may still be recommended or required by code.

Tankless units don’t store heated water in a tank, so they don’t experience the same type of thermal expansion as traditional water heaters. Because of this, many tankless systems do not require an expansion tank for normal operation.

However — pressure changes can still occur in closed plumbing systems.

If the system includes:

• a PRV
• a backflow preventer
• or isolation check valves

an expansion tank may still be recommended to help protect the plumbing system — not just the heater.

Always follow manufacturer instructions and local code requirements.

Do You Still Need an Expansion Tank If You’re on a Well System?

Short Answer: A well pressure tank often absorbs most thermal expansion in many well systems. However, if the system is partially closed by check valves or pressure devices, a separate water heater expansion tank may still be beneficial.

Homes on well systems already use a well pressure tank, which helps regulate pressure and store water.

In many well setups, the pressure tank absorbs most thermal expansion.

However — this is not true in every configuration.

Here’s the simple breakdown:

• Open well system → well tank often provides adequate expansion control
• Partially closed well system → may still benefit from a dedicated expansion tank

Well systems vary widely between homes.

The best approach is to:

• confirm whether water can freely move between the plumbing and well tank
• or whether valves isolate part of the system

A local plumber can verify system type and best practice.

How Long Does an Expansion Tank Last?

Most expansion tanks last around 5–10 years, depending on:

• system pressure
• water quality
• operating temperature
• installation support
• manufacturer design

Over time, the internal bladder can weaken and lose pressure.

Common signs of failure include:

• tank feels heavy and full of water
• no hollow sound when tapping the tank
• pressure fluctuations return
• T&P valve starts dripping again (linked a common T&P)

When the bladder fails, the tank becomes waterlogged and should be replaced.

Where Should a Water Heater Expansion Tank Be Installed?

Most expansion tanks are installed:

• on the cold-water line
• near or above the water heater
• in an upright, properly-supported position

Best practice includes:

• matching tank pre-charge pressure to incoming water pressure
• using proper support straps or brackets when needed
• following manufacturer installation instructions

Always follow local code requirements.

Can an Expansion Tank Extend the Life of a Water Heater?

In many cases — yes.

Expansion tanks can:

• reduce stress on the water heater tank
• minimize thermal expansion pressure fluctuations
• reduce nuisance valve cycling

They are not a cure-all — but in closed systems, they are a smart preventative upgrade that helps reduce repetitive stress over time.

Many plumbers now consider expansion tanks a standard part of modern water heater installations.

Quick Summary — Do You Need One?

You likely need an expansion tank if:

You have a closed plumbing system
You have a PRV or check valve
Your T&P valve drips occasionally
Local code requires expansion protection

You may not need one if:

Your system is open
There are no isolation valves
Your municipality does not require one

Even when not required, expansion protection is often recommended as preventative support.

Related Reading

What Is an Air Chamber in Plumbing? And Why They’re Important

FAQ — Expansion Tank Common Questions

Do expansion tanks require maintenance?

Expansion tanks do not require routine servicing, but they should occasionally be inspected to confirm they are supported, not corroded, and not waterlogged. Check the PSI on the unit to make sure it’s operating at the manufacturers recommended PSI.

Can I install an expansion tank myself?

Some homeowners install them DIY, but proper:

• pressure matching
• support bracing
• and code-compliant placement

are important — many installations are best handled by a qualified plumber.

Do expansion tanks increase water pressure?

No — expansion tanks do not increase water pressure.
They help absorb excess pressure created when heated water expands.

Can an expansion tank fail?

Yes — over time the internal bladder can fail and the tank becomes waterlogged. When that happens, the expansion tank should be replaced. Pro tip : Keep your invoice to help keep track if your expansion tank is under warranty.

Are expansion tanks required everywhere?

Requirements vary by city, state, and inspector.
More areas are requiring them during water heater replacement — especially in closed systems.

Conclusion

Water heater expansion tanks play an important role in homes with closed plumbing systems. They help manage thermal expansion, reduce pressure fluctuations, and protect plumbing components from unnecessary stress. And in many areas, they are now required when installing or replacing a water heater.

If you’re unsure whether your home needs an expansion tank, the best next step is to determine whether your plumbing system is open or closed — and review your local code requirements or installer recommendations.

I’ll also be publishing a future guide that explains how to identify whether your system is open, closed, or partially isolated — so you can better understand how expansion protection applies to your specific home.

Thanks for reading and being apart of this community!

The post Do I Need a Water Heater Expansion Tank? first appeared on plumbing review.

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With over 13 years in plumbing wholesale, I help homeowners and plumbers choose products that actually work in real installations.

What Are Plumbing Vents, and How Do They Work?

Plumbing vents, also called vent stacks, are vertical pipes that connect to your drainage system and extend through your roof. These pipes are responsible for two main functions:

1. Air Pressure Regulation: When water flows through your drainpipes, it creates a vacuum effect. Plumbing vents allow air to enter the system, balancing the pressure and preventing water from being siphoned out of traps.
2. Gas Ventilation: Sewer gases, such as methane and hydrogen sulfide, are unpleasant and hazardous. Vent stacks direct these gases out of your home safely, ensuring clean and breathable air inside.

Imagine trying to pour water out of a sealed bottle—it won’t flow smoothly until air can enter. Plumbing systems work similarly. Without vents, your drains would function poorly, leading to clogs, backups, and even damage to your pipes.

An air admittance valve (AAV) allows air into the drainage system without allowing sewer gases to escape. If you’re looking for a reliable option, this air admittance valve on Amazon is commonly used in residential plumbing applications.

Why Are Plumbing Vents Required in Every Home?

1. Preventing Sewer Gas Buildup

One of the most critical functions of plumbing vents is to prevent sewer gases from entering your home. These gases not only smell bad but can also be harmful to your health. Vents create a direct escape route for these gases, ensuring they don’t build up in your living space.

2. Supporting Smooth Drainage

Ever heard gurgling sounds in your sink or noticed slow drainage? These issues often stem from poor venting. Properly vented systems allow water and waste to move freely through the pipes without creating airlocks or pressure imbalances.

3. Protecting Plumbing Fixtures

Unvented or poorly vented systems can cause damage to your plumbing fixtures. For example, traps in your sinks and toilets could lose their water seal, allowing sewer gases to escape. This could lead to unpleasant odors and health risks.

4. Meeting Building Codes and Standards

Most local building codes require venting for drainage systems. These codes are in place to ensure safety and efficiency, making it essential to comply during construction or renovation.

Common Problems with Plumbing Vents

Blockages

Debris, leaves, and even bird nests can clog vent pipes. These blockages prevent air from entering the system, leading to slow drainage or gurgling sounds in your fixtures.

Improper Installation

Poorly designed venting systems can result in inadequate airflow, leading to the same issues as a clogged vent. For example, vents that are too short or placed in the wrong location may not function effectively.

Aging or Damaged Pipes

Over time, vent pipes can corrode, crack, or become disconnected. This can compromise the efficiency of your plumbing system and require repairs or replacement.

Signs of Venting Issues in Your Plumbing System

• Foul Odors: If you notice sewer-like smells in your home, it’s a clear sign that your vents aren’t working properly.
• Slow Draining Fixtures: Water taking too long to drain could indicate vent blockages or pressure imbalances.
• Gurgling Sounds: Strange noises coming from your drains are often a symptom of venting problems.
• Recurring Clogs: If your pipes clog frequently despite proper maintenance, poor venting might be the culprit.

The Importance of Traps and Vents Working Together

A trap is a U-shaped pipe found under every sink, toilet, and drain. It holds a small amount of water, creating a barrier that prevents sewer gases from escaping into your home. However, traps can only function properly if they’re supported by an effective venting system. Without proper airflow, the pressure imbalance can cause the water seal in traps to be siphoned out, rendering them useless.

Types of Plumbing Vents

1. Main Vent

The primary vent, or stack vent, is the central vertical pipe that extends through the roof. It serves as the main outlet for sewer gases and the entry point for air.

2. Branch Vents

Branch vents connect multiple fixtures to the main vent. These are commonly found in multi-level homes where several bathrooms or kitchens share the same venting system.

3. Air Admittance Valves (AAVs)

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the site at no extra cost to you.

In some cases, especially in older homes or tight spaces, air admittance valves are used as an alternative to traditional vent stacks. These devices allow air to enter the system without needing a roof vent. While convenient, they are not a complete replacement for proper venting and are often used as a last resort.

If you’ve never seen one before, an air admittance valve is a small mechanical vent that opens to let air in and closes to keep sewer gases out.

Here’s a highly rated air admittance valve on Amazon that’s commonly used under sinks or in remodels where a roof vent isn’t practical.

DIY Maintenance Tips for Plumbing Vents

While significant venting issues require professional help, homeowners can take steps to maintain their plumbing vents:

• Inspect Your Roof: Check your roof for visible signs of damage to vent pipes, such as cracks or obstructions.
• Clear Blockages: Use a plumber’s snake or a hose to clear minor clogs in vent stacks.
• Watch for Warning Signs: Pay attention to unusual sounds or smells, and address them promptly.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

Not all venting problems can be solved with DIY methods. If you suspect major blockages, improper installation, or aging pipes, it’s time to call a licensed plumber. They can:

• Use specialized tools like cameras to inspect vent pipes.
• Perform repairs or replacements to damaged vent systems.
• Ensure your plumbing meets local building codes.

More Info: Planning for New Construction or Renovation

If you’re building or remodeling a home, working with an experienced plumber to design your venting system is crucial. Here are some considerations:

• Location Matters: Ensure vents are placed strategically to serve all fixtures.
• Material Quality: Invest in durable materials like PVC or ABS to avoid future issues.
• Compliance: Double-check that your plans align with local building codes to avoid costly adjustments later.

Conclusion: Why You Shouldn’t Overlook Plumbing Vents

Plumbing vents are the unsung heroes of your drainage system. They ensure your home stays free of harmful gases, promote efficient drainage, and protect your plumbing fixtures from unnecessary wear and tear. Whether you’re troubleshooting issues or planning a new system, understanding the importance of vents is key to maintaining a safe and functional home.

If you’re experiencing banging pipes or pressure-related noise, you may also want to understand how air chambers work in plumbing systems. I explain this in more detail in my guide on What Is an Air Chamber in Plumbing? And Why They’re Important.

Have a plumbing question you’d like answered next? I’m building this site around real homeowner and contractor questions—feel free to submit one below.

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The post What Do Plumbing Vents Do (and Why Are They So Important)? first appeared on plumbing review.

A wax ring is a round flange made of wax that is soft and malleable. The wax ring is made to seal and set a toilet bowl to the floor. It fits over 3″ or 4″ waste lines. The wax ring makes a permanent seal and prevents water and gases from escaping.

Whether you’re a weekend project warrior in the process of researching what you need for a future bathroom remodel or just updating a water closet. You will need a wax ring to help you complete the project.

What is a Wax Ring For?

A wax ring is up there with the most common plumbing products. This simple product has multiple functions. Wax rings are necessary for setting a toilet properly. Its primary purpose is to seal a toilet bowl to the floor.

Another function of the wax ring is that it provides a watertight seal. The wax provides an impermeable seal and also helps to keep any sewer gases from seeping through. That alone is an amazing benefit from such a simple design.

Different Wax Rings, Sizes & Types

You might not know this but there are many variations of wax rings. They all serve the same purpose but some are different for slightly different applications. I’ll break them down for you below. All of the wax rings I’ll be discussing here are for floor-mounted toilets and are designed to seal over 3″ or 4″ sanitary pipes. Those pipes could be cast iron, PVC, or copper.

The most basic and most common wax ring is the standard wax ring. This is a plain round wax ring for a basic toilet installation. The thickness of a standard wax ring is approximately 1″ thick.

The next wax ring is what’s called a deep or extra thick wax ring. This is also a plain round wax ring. However, the wax is thicker or deeper making it taller. The average thickness for a deep wax ring is approximately 1-1/4″ .

There are wax rings that also have what they call a horn or gasket on the inner side of the wax ring. The horn is basically a hard plastic funnel inside of the wax. Some people like that it acts as a channel for the waste and water to get into the waste pipe. You can find a regular or standard wax ring with horn and also a deep or extra thick wax ring with horn.

Choosing the Right Wax Ring for Your Toilet

When you’re selecting a wax ring for your toilet installation, several factors come into play to ensure a secure and long-lasting seal. First begin by assessing the flange size and height to determine the appropriate wax ring type. For floor-mounted toilets with a standard flange height, a traditional standard wax ring, approximately 1″ thick, is often suitable for the application. However, in scenarios where the flange sits higher due to added flooring layers, consider an extra-thick wax ring, around 1-1/4″ in thickness, to accommodate the difference. Additionally, for those preferring added features, wax rings with horns or gaskets can be beneficial, guiding waste and water into the waste pipe more efficiently. Understanding your toilet’s specific requirements and the surrounding environment will aid in choosing the ideal wax ring for a secure and reliable seal.

Reasons for Replacing Your Wax Ring

Here are some reasons you would need to replace a toilet wax ring.

• Simple toilet replacement: When undertaking a routine toilet replacement, it’s advisable to replace the wax ring as well to ensure a fresh and secure seal.
• Toilet shifting and damage: If the toilet has shifted or become unstable, potentially damaging the existing wax ring, it’s crucial to replace it to restore the seal’s integrity.
• Toilet removal for maintenance: When necessary to remove the toilet for tasks like snaking out the waste pipe or addressing underlying plumbing issues, replacing the wax ring during reinstallation is essential for a proper seal.
• Leakage around the toilet base: Any signs of water seepage or leakage around the base of the toilet indicate a compromised wax ring, warranting immediate replacement to prevent water damage and maintain a secure seal.

Do You Put the Wax Ring on the Toilet or the Floor Flange?

The best and proper way is to position the wax ring on the floor flange before setting the toilet bowl. The reason for this is because if you stick the wax ring to the bowl first it will not create an effective seal. Here are some tips for setting your toilet.

• Make sure the floor and flange is clean and clear of any debris or old wax.
• Place the wax ring in the correct position and center it on the flange as best you can.
• Set the bowl down over the wax ring and lower the bowl slowly onto the wax and center the holes over the toilet bolts.
• Now you can press the bowl down and give it enough pressure to have the wax create a nice seal onto the bowl.

How Long Will a Wax Ring Last?

A toilet bowl wax ring typically lasts for many years when installed properly. There are factors that can affect the lifespan, like correct installation, usage frequency, and environmental conditions. A well-installed wax ring can normally last around a decade or more. However, heavy usage or shifts in the toilet may wear it out faster. Some environmental elements like extreme temperatures or moisture exposure will also impact its integrity. Regular checks for leaks, odors, or movement are recommended and can help determine if the wax ring needs replacement. Promptly addressing any of these signs of wear can prevent potential water damage.

Ensuring Longevity: Maintenance Tips for Extending the Life of Your Wax Ring

Maintaining your wax ring is pivotal for ensuring a durable and watertight seal around your toilet. Regular inspections will play a key role; periodically check for any signs of leakage, shifting, or damage around the toilet base. Additionally, keep the area around the toilet clean and free from moisture or debris, as this can degrade the wax ring over time. A simple practice is to gently clean the base of the toilet, ensuring there’s no buildup of grime that might compromise the seal. Moreover, consider scheduling annual or bi-annual inspections by a professional plumber to assess the wax ring’s condition and make any necessary replacements or adjustments. These proactive measures not only extend the lifespan of your wax ring but also help prevent potential water damage and costly repairs that could arise in the future.

If you’re working on a bathroom or kitchen plumbing project and comparing product options, you may also find my article helpful on Are Cheap Kitchen Faucets on Amazon Worth Buying — Really? It covers where budget faucets make sense — and where spending a little more can save you money in the long run.

The post What Is a Toilet Wax Ring? A Clear and Practical Guide first appeared on plumbing review.

Air chambers are small lengths of pipe that are mounted on your water pipes, close to a fixture. They‘re made to stop hydraulic shock also known as water hammer. The air in the chamber compresses and absorbs the shock of water moving abruptly in your pipes. This all happens when a fixture shuts off the water quickly.

There is absolutely a variety of air chambers to choose from. Not all of them are created equally. Adding these air chambers to your existing plumbing can save you thousands of dollars. I’ll explain what I mean by that in this post.

Air Chambers are also known as…

Air chambers are called different things depending on what you were taught. Old school plumbers call them PPP’s. Air chambers are also known as hammer arrestors, shock arrestors, and mini arrestors to name a few. Throughout my post, I will be referring to air chambers as hammer arresters. Now let’s discuss exactly what water hammer is.

What is Water Hammer?

The Pressure surge from a valve shutting off abruptly changes the momentum of the water. When this happens your pipes move and shake and you hear a noise called water hammer. Water is a non-compressible fluid. We tend to forget but water is actually quite heavy. A gallon is about 8.33 pounds! Think of all the water in your plumbing system at home or even in a large commercial plumbing system. That can be a lot of water and the weight can add up very quickly.

Imagine the water flowing into your plumbing system. Then picture a valve from a fixture like a laundry faucet being shut off quickly. The water literally slams into the valve and reverberates. The water moves back against the flow and this causes pipes to move and shake. The change in momentum creates a spike in pressure. That can be detrimental to your plumbing system.

Why Air Chambers are Necessary

We want to mitigate water hammer. The first way to do that should be to try and slow the closure speed of the valve. This might not be possible depending on the fixture. For example, if a dishwasher shuts off you cant control the speed of that valve. The next best way to mitigate water hammer is with an air chamber device A.K.A a hammer arrester.

Water hammer shakes and moves plumbing systems and creates that audible water hammer noise. This not only can shift pipes but it beats up your plumbing joints, valves and fixtures. Here are some things that water hammer damages that you probably haven’t thought about.

The Main Products that Get Damaged from Water Hammer

• Water heaters
• Faucets
• Shower valves
• Fittings
• Backflow preventers
• Plumbing hangers or bracing

I want to expand briefly on each of these products. Let’s start with Water Heaters. Your water heater can fail from excessive and uncontrolled water hammer. The shock wave of water that travels through your tank rapidly and over time can cause your tank lining to crack. If your tank cracks that can cause rusting and leaking and ultimately failure. As you most likely know water heaters can be very costly to switch out.

Faucets can be damaged from water hammer as well. When a surge of water comes through, your faucet cartridge is what typically gets damaged. Your faucet cartridge can crack from water hammer. Hopefully, you can find your cartridge easily, and hopefully, it’s not too expensive to fix.

A shower valve is susceptible to damage from water hammer too. Increased pressure can wreck your shower valve in many ways. In many cases, if the valve is old you won’t be able to get a replacement cartridge. You might be forced to open up walls and put in a new shower valve.

Backflow preventers are at risk from water hammer as well. Downstream surges of water can create excess dumping of water from your backflow preventer. Backflow preventers are built tuff but they have a lot of internal parts. When water hammer is involved they can be exposed to extreme wear from that kind of pressure. Fixing these units is costly and can take a decent amount of time to work on even by a licensed professional.

Not so Obvious Products that can be Damaged

The pipes and fittings that make up your plumbing system can be damaged too. When your pipes shake and move this creates external pressure on plumbing joints. The joints are typically elbows and tee’s. If one lets loose the damage can be extensive. Water hammer in the plumbing system creates high internal pressure that can exceed your pipe and fittings pressure rating. If that happens fittings can fail that way as well.

Hangers and brackets. This one by now is probably pretty obvious but it’s worth mentioning. When you have water hammer, and the pipes are banging around that can dislodge plumbing system hangers and brackets. When that happens that can create loud noises when the pipes are not secured. If your plumbing system is hanging without hangers it’s at greater risk of totally failing.

The Mechanics of an Air Chamber.

It’s a fairly simple device, the hammer arrestor requires no maintenance and no charging of air.

Internally the hammer arrestor has a piston that’s sealed inside the copper pipe with a few o-rings. The space thats above the piston, is charged with air and below the piston, it’s exposed to the plumbing water. So as a shock wave from a fast-closing valve moves through the pipes and to the hammer arrestor that causes the piston to rise and compress the air. As a result, when that compression occurs it’s absorbing the energy from the shock that was caused by the initial fast-closing valve. Once the energy is dissolved it then releases the piston and it waits for the water hammer to occur again.

Where Air Chambers are Typically Located?

Air chambers are typically located on the plumbing pipe in close proximity to a plumbing fixture. Hammer arresters need to be installed within 6 feet of the quick closing valve. Hammer arresters can be installed at any angle. Which is really nice for the installer.

Plumbing fixtures that should have a hammer arrester installed close to them are:

Dishwashers

Washing Machines

Tub and shower valves

Sensor faucets

Ice Makers

These are some of the big items that most likely will need a hammer arrester. Of course, you could have other fixtures that require one as well. I always recommend speaking to a licensed professional about your plumbing concerns.

What Types of Air Chambers are there?

There are so many different types of air chambers out there. They make really generic ones and they make fixture specific ones too. I recommend a well-made hammer arrester. Cold-formed and spin closed ends mean that they have no welded seams. That means that there is one less joint that could leak. That might be something that only a really good contractor cares about. It’s something to consider if you purchase one yourself.

The vast array of arresters include 1/2″ copper sweat, 1/2″ MIP, 3/4″ Hose connection for a washer machine. They also have 3/8″ compression tee’s for a dishwasher. They have a toilet and tub and shower specific hammer arresters too. There’s also cpvc and expansion and crimp pex straight arrestors. The list goes on and on.

The main point here is that there is an arrester for every application. That makes the installation process way easier.

Final Thoughts

Hopefully, you’ve learned some relevant information about air chambers/hammer arresters. You can see that they are very useful to have as a part of your plumbing system. If your home has any signs of water hammer please take that seriously. Professional plumbers will be able to not only install them where they are needed but they will be able to size them correctly as well. Sizing them can be tricky and that might have to be for another post.

If you have comments and would like me to write about anything plumbing related please let me know. Thanks so much for taking the time to be here.

The post What is an Air Chamber in Plumbing? And Why They’re Important. first appeared on plumbing review.

A chimney vent water heater is simply a gas-fueled hot water heater that is vented through a chimney. Also referred to by the pros as an “atmospheric vent” water heater.

This type of hot water heater is by far the most common of all water heaters in a residential setting. If your home was built in the 1900’s and you have a chimney then most likely your water heater is vented through the chimney. On most new homes if you have a conventional vent gas water heater it could just be vented through a metal flue pipe and go out through the roof where it’s then terminated. More on that throughout this post.

Why do you need to vent the water heater?

Because when you burn gas or fossil fuel it creates combustion and exhaust gases that absolutely need to be vented properly to remove them from your home. When you have a hot water heater that runs on natural gas or liquid propane (LP) gas, your hot water heater will need to be vented properly. Of course, we recommend you check your hot water heaters specification sheet and install manual for your specific hot water heater venting requirements.

Not only do you have to follow the guidelines for venting the water heater in your basement but depending on what kind of water heater you have, the termination of the vent outside of your home as certain requirements as well – for example, the vent might have to be so far away from a window or corner of a home. However, if its chimney vented that won’t be an issue for you.

What is atmospheric venting?

Simply put it’s the process of the exhaust gases naturally rising into the atmosphere. The hot water heaters exhaust gases are channeled through a vent and rise into the Atmosphere. An atmospheric gas hot water heater actually vents through a metal pipe. The metal pipe goes from the top of your hot water heater and travels upward through your home. It then vents out the top of your roof where it is then terminated.

Since we know that hot air works on the principle of rising upward, that is exactly what the atmospheric vent is for. It is critical that the venting is channeling upward and if not totally vertical then sloping upward. By sloping upward it will ensure the gases are flowing out of the house and through the metal vent pipe.

It is my recommendation that you consult with a professional plumber or inspector for any local code questions. Remember safety is first!

What venting material is used on a chimney vented heater?

The venting material is a metal pipe that typically transitions into a chimney liner. The first few feet of venting material before it reaches the chimney is most likely going to be a single-wall metal vent pipe or even a “B vent” pipe.

A “B vent” is used for venting gas appliances. It’s a double-wall metal pipe. That means it has two layers – an outer wall and an inner wall. The double-wall “B vent” does three things:

1) It helps radiate the heat better

2) It doesn’t get as hot

3) It adds another layer to help keep any fumes or exhaust gases from leaking out

Normally you will see a ninety degree bend and then a section of straight metal pipe that leads into the chimney. The length will vary depending on how far away your chimney is from the hot water heater.

The size of that metal venting will be 3″ or 4″ in diameter depending on the water heater venting requirements. Once it reaches the chimney it’s then connected to either a “B vent” metal venting or a chimney liner that will travel all the way up the chimney and terminate at the top.

Functionality of the venting

Since the chimney vent, hot water heaters exhaust gases naturally rise and travel through the venting. The room air gets pulled in through the draft diverter that sits on top of the water heater. The venting then connects to the draft diverter. As the air travels through the venting it carries the exhaust gases with it. It then exits through the chimney and out the top.

Another reason contractors vent through the chimney is because sometimes that’s the best option. If you’re pressed for space, venting through the chimney makes the most sense. If you think about it, that’s one less hole coming out of your house. Who wants to see a bunch of roof terminations anyway. If you’re like me and value the aesthetics of your home you would appreciate that.

I’m sure if you have a chimney vented water heater you’ll see that the hot water heater itself is probably placed really close to the chimney, or at least as close to it as feasible. That just makes the most sense to have the heater’s footprint as close as possible to the chimney.

You wouldn’t really want the heater to be more than just a few feet away from your chimney. There’s nothing wrong with that, it’s just more pipe to run and more pipe in your basement. Which could just take up that precious basement space that we all need.

For the aesthetic and functionality of your mechanics, it makes the most sense to put the water heater as close as possible to the chimney. There’s a good chance your furnace is vented into your chimney as well.

Safety considerations

Venting gas appliances properly is very important. That starts with the install. If you have your water heater installed per the manufacture specs you will be good to go. Keeping your venting clear of any debris is also just as important. If you happen to have a missing flue cap or screen that can be an access point for debris and that can be a problem that you will want to address right away.

I’ve had many plumbers send me pictures of vent pipes that were severely clogged. Sometimes with just nesting debris and sometimes with dead squirrels or birds… it’s not a pretty picture.

This can cause major problems and pose a safety concern for you and your family. You see if the venting is blocked it will create a backdraft and then the exhaust gases will come back into the house. Having your chimney inspected every so often would be a good idea.

Have a carbon monoxide detector

It’s definitely a best practice to have a carbon monoxide detector in your basement and if possible on every level of your home. If there was ever an issue with your hot water heaters venting you would be alarmed by the carbon monoxide detector. I personally really like the combo ones that are a smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector in one.

The next time that you have a plumber over for any maintenance or plumbing project you could ask them to just check out your water heaters venting to ensure that it’s venting properly and that it’s clear of any debris. Their experts and should have no problem taking a look at that for you.

If you want to do a quick test to see if you’re getting proper venting flow. Just put your hand close to the draft diverter that’s on top of your water heater. You should feel the cool air being pulled up into the vent. If you feel warm air pushing out of the vent then that is a problem and you should call a professional plumber right away. The safety of yourself and your family is always the number one priority.

Lastly, I want to thank you for taking the time to learn about chimney vent water heaters and some of the venting options that apply to conventional atmospheric hot water heaters. Please consider taking a look at my other articles and please share this post if you think someone could benefit from this.

The post What is a Chimney Vent Water Heater? A Quick Overview first appeared on plumbing review.